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Gulmarg

Steep, deep, and cheap is the best way to describe skiing at the Indian ski “resort”, Gulmarg. Gulmarg provides all the joys of heli-skiing minus the helicopter, and the opportunity to absorb a unique cultural experience. The skiing and snowboarding is most suited to advanced riders who enjoy off-piste backcountry untouched powder. This is a must-do ski destination for all Powderhounds. The fresh tracks and the quality of the powder have some similarities to Hokkaido, Japan, but Gulmarg has fewer crowds and more challenging terrain.

Most people are surprised to hear that there is a ski resort in India. Think India and one typically conjures thoughts of stinking hot weather, dust and humidity, but up in the Himalayas in the Kashmir region, the snow falls in abundance.

The Gulmarg resort has undergone a recent redevelopment with the installation of a new two-stage gondola. This top area which has some of the most challenging terrain is sometimes closed due to foul weather (or too much snow!), with the area below the gondola mid-station offering protected tree skiing. The terrain here is relatively gentle, and includes a groomed run that travels to the base of the gondola. Wildlife enjoys the protection this area affords, so you might need to be able to ski fast if you don’t want to become snow leopard bait.

During storms when the gondola is unable to operate at all, there is more off-piste skiing below the gondola which is best undertaken with the Kashmir Powdercat guides, who organise transport back up to the village.

There is some beginner terrain near the village serviced by five pomas, but until the resorts implement plans to groom more terrain, there is little to entertain intermediate skier and boarders. This is really a mountain for hard-core skiers and snowboarders.

The skiable terrain is vast and there are plenty of opportunities to get lost. Coupled with the avalanche risk to be expected with steep and deep terrain, it is incredibly wise to utilize the services of a guide as part of a tour. The tour operators are very safety conscious which is imperative considering that Gulmarg is a primitive wilderness that requires respect.

SnowGo offer one or two week escorted tours to Gulmarg, or longer if you wish. The tours include transfers, accommodation, guiding, breakfasts and dinners, Kashmir powder cats, hosting and concierge services. Avalanche training is also provided. You need to organise your own flights to Delhi, and then a domestic flight to Srinagar where you will be met by the tour operators for a transfer to Gulmarg.

A popular side excursion is an overnight stay in Srinagar on a houseboat on Dal Lake, with spectacular views of the Himalayas.

Gulmarg is not a glitzy resort. It has no-frills whatsoever and the facilities are certainly not 5-star. Hot water and heating at your accommodation is considered luxurious. Nevertheless, if you want a great cultural experience and the ultimate powder skiing adventure, then Gulmarg is for you. It’s a haven for Powderhounds.

Travel tips for Gulmarg
Security and Safety The ‘Line of Control’ is a de-militarized border between India and Pakistan, which is 20km away from Gulmarg. India and Pakistan have been in conflict over the ‘ownership’ of this disputed area since the early 1900’s. China is in the mix as well. Wars over this area have devastated the region and its people. During the late 1980’s and 1990’s, Kashmir was definitely not a safe area for tourists to visit, but since 2002 the area has been at peace.

Nevertheless, there are many troops based in the area, and the Srinagar airport in particular has very tight security. It is always wise to visit the smart traveller website to check the latest information. The website will generally recommend a “do not travel” to Kashmir due to the possibility of terrorism. The Srinagar to Gulmarg road has had a history of incidents involving foreigners. Many travellers to Gulmarg have felt completely safe whilst travelling, but you need to be aware of the risks and make your own decision.

Female travellers, especially if alone, may receive unwanted attention from men. The sexual harassment can be very intimidating, and it is advised that women should avoid walking alone in deserted areas where possible. On the houseboats in Kashmir there have been some incidents of single women being harassed by houseboat employees. 

Health There is a high incidence of food-borne, water-borne and other infectious diseases in India. Vaccinations are recommended including Hep A, Hep B, Typhoid, Cholera, Polio and Meningitis. Check with your GP but some of these vaccinations will be required at least four to six weeks before departing. Some travellers might suffer from “Gulmarg Guts” which is the equivalent of “Delhi Belly”. Pack the Lomotil (or Immodium) and Stemetil tablets with you. Some soft toilet paper would also be worth packing.

It is recommended not to drink the tap water, and this includes whilst brushing your teeth or taking a shower. Boil all drinking water or drink bottled water, avoid ice cubes and raw and undercooked food. 

Try to avoid dogs and monkeys around the village and at Monkey Hill, , and definitely try not to get bitten. Occasionally snow leopards have been known to attack humans, so to escape, you might want to be able to ski fast.

Altitude sickness is not likely to be a major problem, but the top of the gondola is at approximately 4,000m, so the air is a bit thin. Unless you’ve been undertaking altitude training, take the skiing and boarding a little easy for the first few days. 

Language Most of the locals speak fluent English as well as Kashmiri, their native tongue. 

Money As a rough guide, $AUD1 converts to approximately 34 Rupees. For a two week holiday, the equivalent of $AUD500 should be ample. Here are some approximate costs: bottled water is 50 Rupee; Coke/ Pepsi is 40 Rupee; and smokes about 40 Rupee. Tips of 5-10 percent are customary, but not compulsory.

Mobile Phones Mobile phones work in Srinagar, but not in Gulmarg, unless they’re with the Indian provider BSNL.

Travel Insurance Check your travel insurance carefully as most will not cover off-piste skiing. There is a slight risk of being a victim of terrorism, so take out the extra insurance to cover these options. STA travel insurance is the cheapest and provides very good coverage.

Electrical adaptersThe adapter required is the same as that for South Africa, but see the Korjo website regarding the adapter required, as it’s not as simple as one would hope.

Time zone Gulmarg is 4.5 to 5.5 hours behind Australian Eastern Standard Time depending upon daylight savings. You’ll feel compelled to get up really early (great on powder days, but this could be wasted if gondola workers are operating on ish-time) and go to bed super early.

Ski gear and clothing The temperatures in Gulmarg are not super cold, so you probably won’t need to pack face protection. Not having to travel on cold chairlifts is also a bonus.

As good rental gear is not available, it’s wise to take your own skis or snowboard. It is possible to ski on slalom skis, but if you want to float in the powder, fat skis with a waist wider than 81mm are ideal. Mid-fats at about 75mm in the waist will suffice if needs be.

After a Gulmarg mega-dump you may need powder straps or ribbons to ensure you don’t lose your skis when they release during a fall. Powder straps attach the ski to the boot, whilst powder ribbons are a long colourful ribbon attached to the ski or binding which is stored up the gaiter or in the front of the boot. The former can be purchased through large ski stores, whilst the latter can be home made with the help of a caribina to fasten the ribbon to the ski. Snowboarders may require snow shoes or ideally bring a split board.

You’ll definitely need a helmet and goggles, and Powerhound essentials also include avalanche safety equipment.




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